By Courtney A. Farnsworth, The J.M. Smucker Company
If you work in coffee, chances are you know – or have heard of – Tracy May Adair.
We recently had the privilege to sit down with Tracy May for an interview less than one month before her retirement to discuss her many roles and experiences in coffee over the years.
If you ask her, Tracy May got into the coffee industry “by accident, just like many others.” She studied Chemical Engineering in college and earned an MFA in Poetry – a far cry from anything coffee-related. After being recruited at a job fair to work in Proctor & Gamble’s soaps division, Tracy May made the move to San Francisco to manage the maintenance department at the Folgers Coffee Plant. She quickly rose through the ranks at Folgers, taking on various roles across the country, ultimately becoming the Director of Green Coffee Supply and Coffee R&D.
The coffee industry has changed significantly since Tracy May’s career began. She notes that the biggest change – on the consumer side – has been the sharp increase in the number of coffee shops in the U.S. and elsewhere. In 1990, Starbucks had less than 100 stores; there are now there are over 35,000 locations worldwide. She also notes the rising cost of labor; less available labor for what is considered a ‘high-touch’ agricultural product; the rise of single-serve coffee products; increased mechanization where possible; and a higher cost of production.
I asked Tracy May what the most difficult part of her job has been over the years. “There’s just a really high degree of industry knowledge needed. Keeping current enough on both industry information and internal technology and plans to try and bridge the gap between them. For example, our supply base may think about coffees being interchangeable that we don’t see as interchangeable because our product designs are different from their other customers. Our internal team may say, “So-and-so uses this coffee, why can’t we?” but they don’t understand that there might be limitations that a roaster with different technology or different market needs can live with, but it doesn’t fit our business model.” She added, “We need to keep understanding what is out there, what changes are going on, and try to understand what might become opportunities for our business, even though it isn’t currently on our radar.”
What is something that she’s enjoyed over the years? “I like cupping — cupping is the hub that everything else revolves around. When you cup you don’t know what you’re going to experience on the table. Coffee can surprise you. It raises questions, and it’s a complex industry so the questions are complex and interesting. The cupping table is where you run into surprises, good or bad, and those raise questions and suggest opportunities. Cupping is not just a bunch of yes/no decisions. Of course, those decisions need to be made. That’s just the beginning.”
Tracy May couldn’t pin down one memory in her career as her favorite, but shared a story about when the Folgers business worked with USAID and Technoserve to help build and start a school in Huehuetenango, Guatemala. She gave a speech at the opening that had to be translated into two different languages, Spanish and Mam, the local language. “That school would help kids learn Spanish, among other things, so that they could have opportunities that would otherwise be closed to them. That’s not so much about coffee as about the importance of education.” When asked about her greatest achievement throughout her career, she stated, without a doubt, “Helping the Folgers business recover from Hurricane Katrina in 2005.”
It is more than a fine cup of coffee that has inspired Tracy May over the years, it is more about the role that we all play as individuals in the greater picture. “I’m not here for the profit of the business—I’m here for the support of the families that depend on the business (including my own). If I do my job well, then they are all better off. Business profit or other measures of business success are just ways to keep the business stable so it can continue to contribute to society through its employees.”
Finally, I asked Tracy May for a bit of advice to offer the next generation of coffee professionals, and here is what she had to say: “Be curious and follow your curiosity. Especially now that so much information is available on the internet, through all parts of the industry. You don’t have to limit yourself to information that only touches on your immediate job or task, and it’s probably better if you don’t. Read widely, ask questions of others in the industry, learn about all aspects of the business, and then connect those dots to see if it brings a new idea for your business or career.”
Even with 33 years in the coffee industry, she mentioned that she often still feels like the newest person in the room. Tracy May attributed much of her knowledge to conversations she has had with other industry professionals, especially when traveling together. She encourages everyone throughout their career to “Ask a lot of questions. Most people are very willing to talk about their most recent project, trip, or what they think is important in their current role and you get to know a lot about them and the industry that way.”
She also offered this: “Mostly say yes to opportunities that come your way, even if they feel uncomfortable because you aren’t sure you’re ready for them. It’s hard to know how to navigate a career in any field when there’s so much you don’t know about it. Saying yes to opportunities can teach you what you like or don’t like to do, and what you want to do more of.” She also stresses that “Just because you can, that doesn’t mean you always should. ”There is no one straight path to a successful career in the coffee industry. Coffee is complex; every day there is something new. The important part is to keep learning and enjoy what you do.
On behalf of everyone in the business, I want to thank Tracy May for all her contributions to the industry over her career.